3 days in Edinburgh

Sitting on the tram on my way from Scotland’s Edinburgh airport to the city center, a light breeze that smelled of air freshener blew against my face as we cruised smoothly along a tram track lined by bright green shrubbery and flowers. Compared to the grimy underground NYC metro I was used to, I knew that I was going to enjoy this city.

I arrived with a longtime friend in Edinburgh on what was to be her first trip outside of the U.S, and felt giddy as the green shrubbery surrounding our tram car turned into medieval buildings and streets lined with shops, and tourists milling about. Over the next three days of our stay we explored all that Edinburgh has to offer.  

Whether you’ve already booked your ticket or you’re toying with the idea of visiting Scotland. Here’s a three day itinerary of must-dos and sees in this enchanting medieval city.

Edinburgh, Scotland as spring blooms. (photo: Lauren Mulvey)

Day One

Settle into Edinburgh and take a walk through the city. The architecture alone is sight enough to feast your eyes for your first day so explore the streets. Edinburgh (which by the way is pronounced “Eh-din-bruh”) is split into different quarters. There’s the Old Towne, a facet of nearly every European city and the place to be for historical architecture, and then there’s New Town where you’ll find more modern buildings and lots of shopping.

Grab a full Scottish breakfast at The Edinburgh Larder complete with black pudding and haggis, and don’t ask what haggis is because you don’t want to know. This spot has great ratings and is located right in the heart of Old Town. After breakfast take a walk down city’s high streets, and explore gothic landmarks and shops full of Scotland’s best sweaters, or pop into a museum.

Visit Edinburgh Castle which sits above the city on Castle Rock and looks an awful lot like Hogwarts school from Harry Potter, which makes a lot of sense because the best-selling book series was written in Edinburgh. 

Spend some time exploring the Royal Mile, street that runs through the heart of Edinburgh’s Old Town and where you can find some of the oldest pubs, whiskey tasting rooms, live street music (usually an Ed Sheeran cover). The street connects Edinburgh Castle to the Palace of Holyroodhouse which has played host to many famous historical figures including Mary Queen of Scots, and today often welcomes the king of Great Britain.

Stop by Greyfriars Kirkyard and explore a beautiful graveyard which displays gorgeous views of the city in the winter or visit in the summer when the space is enshrouded by many lush green trees. This graveyard is where J.K. Rowling is said to have found inspiration for many of the names in the Harry Potter books.

If you were hoping for the likes of Italy in Edinburgh’s culinary scene you’ll have to think again. But what you can find in Scotland’s capital city is masterful pub grub. Burgers, fish and chips, steak, and other bistro-style fare can be washed down with a cold beer or a bit of Scottish whiskey.

Edinburgh’s medieval architecture transports you to the Dark Ages — or to the world of Harry Potter, whichever feels right. (photo: Lauren Mulvey)

Day Two

A short walk from Old Town you’ll find a gorgeous vista of green and yellow cliffs and hills; this is Arthur’s Seat, which has an elusive name that historians predict is either named for King Arthur or was adapted from a translation of the phrase “height of arrows.” 

In the spring and summer, the hills are coated in a thick sheet of an invasive species of flower called gorse. This bright yellow flower lines the moderately difficult hiking trail, and serves as a distraction from all the heaving and sweating you’ll endure on the way up. The trail only goes up so take your time, bring some water and stop for breaks along the way. Though the trek may be difficult, the views are absolutely worth it. 

For a healthy dose of Scottish history, visit the National Museum of Scotland for free and discover collections spanning Ancient Egyptian history, minerals and glass and even bagpipes. Or just go for the rooftop views on the seventh floor to see some of the city’s most beautiful monuments from above.

If your legs aren’t too tired after the hike, grab some pub grub and enjoy Edinburgh’s nightlife. Various clubs play hits from every era so you can dance the night away. For a more relaxed vibe enjoy some live music at The Jazz Bar, or snag a beer at The Pear Tree and watch a soccer match in their beer garden amongst many jeering fans. 

Descending from Arthur’s Seat (photo: Lauren Mulvey)

Day Three

You’ve seen the big city sights, now it’s time to hop on a bus, which conveniently uses a tap payment if you have Apple Pay or a tap credit card. Grab a bus from Princes Street and head just outside of the city to Dean’s Village, a chic more residential neighborhood home to lovely cafes, views, and the National Galleries of Scotland.

Stop for brunch at nearby Cairngorm Coffee on the corner of Melville Street and Lynedoch Place where the coffee is fresh, the croissants are flaky and the avocado toast is topped with feta cheese and crisped to perfection.

Stroll up Lynedoch Place and make a turn onto Bells Brae. Here you can see Bells Brae Bridge, one of Edinburgh’s most Instagrammable spots that looks like a little old English village with a stream passing through and a shrubbery framed bridge overlooking the water. From here you can start a beautiful walk along the Water of Leith Walkway which takes you along the Water of Leith through gorgeous hanging greenery for 13 miles with exits at different destinations and local streets. 

Venture just a bit further out of town and you’ll reach Stockbridge, a neighborhood with picturesque cobblestone streets which will eventually lead you to the Royal Botanic Gardens of Edinburgh, one of the world’s leading botanical gardens that dates back 350 years. This property sits on 70 acres of land, and is a perfect place to spend your afternoon. 

End your evening with a trip to Stramash, a live music bar where the dance floor is always lively and even hosts traditional Scottish Ceilidh dancing every Wednesday where you can grab a drink and let loose dancing with strangers.

Bells Bae Bridge in Dean’s Village (photo: Lauren Mulvey)